El Corazon Manda Semillon 2023
La Cayetana
Semillon… almost everyone in the wine trade’s favourite tough sell. We find it irresistible, don’t we, but it doesn’t bloody sell. Well, it didn’t until we found this little asteroid from La Cayetana. The vines are over 70 years old in El Peral in the Uco Valley, trained in the old pergola style on alluvial soils with clay and river stones, calcium carbonate deposits and sandy areas with a high proportion of calcareous rocks. And that last feature sets the tone as this is a wine of under-stated beauty, with what we like to call a ‘boney’, lean profile, delicious vertical acidity and tantalisingly rich citrus fruit. Wild yeast fermentation happens after a long cold soak of whole bunches only in 5,000 litre unlined concrete cubes, where most of the wine remains for 10 months before bottling. 20% rests in old 500 litre French barrels.
For those who like an uncompromising white wine, wild and bold in profile and attitude, that will age magnificently if they have the patience, this is the Semillon!